Aquarium Setup Guide

Selecting Your Tank

For beginners, a freshwater aquarium is probably better than saltwater because it is easier to set up. The only real advantage of a saltwater tank is that saltwater fish are more diverse, exhibiting vibrant colors and exotic appeal. Their living conditions, however, require a steeper learning curve to appropriate--steeper than this article is prepared to ascend. We'll keep it fresh and simple. . .

Random Aquarium Facts and Trivia:

• Metal Halide: Metal halide lights are a type of light bulb which burns very white and very bright. They require a special fixture and ballast. They are the closest thing we have to artificial sunlight, and are typically used on reefs and planted tanks.
• Some fish live in salt water but are spawned in brackish or fresh water and vice versa. There are several brackish species available in the aquarium hobby, see Freshwater Fish for descriptions.

Setting Up A Freshwater Aquarium

The first thing to do is select a tank. Buy as large a tank as you can afford. The bigger tanks are easier to clean and manage (believe it or not). More importantly, the number and variety of fish you can have hinges entirely on the size of your tank. A common newbie mistake

You'll need a few things to set up your freshwater tank. The most important is its filter system. Filtration is the heart of any tank. It cycles the water, treating and removing contaminates. A filter kit that includes hoses, pump(s), carbon filter cartridges and attachments can be readily purchased off the shelf. Ideally, the filter should be able to cycle the entire volume of the tank twice an hour. A ten gallon tank, for example, would require a 20 gallon-per-hour pump. Larger tanks (50+ gallons) might need two or more pumps for successful filtration.

Random Aquarium Facts and Trivia:

• Osmotic Stress: An adverse reaction caused when the salinity of an animal's environment changes drastically.
• Macroplankton: Usually refers to jellyfish, sargassum weed.

Next, an aquarium should have a heater to maintain temperatures necessary for tropical fish (usually ranging from 68 to 80 degrees--see fish "specs" for details). With larger tanks (50+ gallons), more than one heater might be necessary. Heaters can be purchased from any pet store or department store with a pet section.

Other aquarium accessories include an optional aeration device (a small pump that pushes air through a bubble tube or sponge-like medium to create oxygenating bubbles and decor), substrate (aquarium pebbles or sand to line the bottom of the tank), and any tank decorations (backgrounds, bogs, reefs, rocks, centerpieces, driftwood, artificial plants, etc.).

Adding Fish

Once the tank has been assembled, its time to add the last component: the fish. Below are the extremely basic guidelines for tank population:

1. don't combine aggressive fish with non-agressive fish (these will be labeled at most pet stores)
2. don't overpopulate the tank--the rule of thumb is to provide one gallon of water for every inch of fish
3. don't add more than three new fish to the tank at a time, allowing a week between additions
4. ensure that all fish in the tank can handle a communal water temperature.

Random Aquarium Facts and Trivia:

• Benthic/Benthos: Refers to living on or under the substrate at the bottom of the ocean.
• plankton - Plankton are the drifters of the sea. Although they may have some form of locomotion they are mostly carried by water currents. Plankton is divided into macroplankton (jellyfish, sargassum weed) and microplankton, organisms that can only be seen by a microscope. The microplankton is divided into zooplankton, tiny marine animals, and phytoplankton, or plants. Most fish start their lives as small animals in the plankton.

Okay, Now What?

In a word: maintenance. This includes three primary tasks that will need to be completed regularly to ensure fish longetivity.

1. Cleaning. A 10-20% percent tank water change (no more than 20%) will need to be performed weekly to flush out biotoxins. Organic waste eventually breaks down and pollutes aquarium water, despite filtration. Make sure to clean your filter meshes and scrub the glass to remove algae and fish water "scum" prior to water changeout.
2. Feeding. Different fish have different feeding requirements. Flake food will suffice for beginners--just don't feed too much! The leading cause of tank problems is overfeeding. Feed only enough food as can be gobbled up in two or three minutes. A pinch in the bottom of your palm is enough for most adolescent fish. Hint: Consider buying a few bottom feeder fish to assist in tank cleanup.
3. Chemical monitoring. Organic food and fish wastes (especially goldfish wastes) contain high concentrations of ammonia and nitrates, while tap water contains chlorine and chloramines, phospates and other harmful heavy metals. These chemicals must be combatted with routine water changes, carbon filtration and chemical treatments. A basic chemical treatment starter kit should include a pH stabilizer (powder or liquid), tap water conditioner, ammonia and nitrate removers, a carton of aquarium salt and a basic testing kit or internal tank meter. Best advice: visit your local pet store's fish chemicals shelf and study what's available.

Conclusion

The best advice to beginning aquariasts is to be patient. Research is a must for aquariasts to avoid problems later. Buy a book or two. Get your hands dirty. Remember: fish are just like any other pets; they require a little bit of work. Good luck!